Why Hand Planes Still Matter
In an age of thickness planers and belt sanders, the hand plane might seem obsolete. It isn't. A sharp, well-tuned hand plane can produce a surface so smooth it needs no sanding — the fibers are sliced cleanly rather than abraded. For fitting joints, shooting end grain, and final surface prep, nothing beats it.
The challenge for beginners is that there are dozens of plane types, and the numbering system (No. 1 through No. 8, plus specialty planes) isn't always intuitive. Here's a practical breakdown.
The Stanley/Bailey Numbering System
Most bench planes follow the Bailey pattern, numbered by size. The number roughly corresponds to length and weight:
| Number | Length | Primary Use |
|---|---|---|
| No. 3 | ~9 in | Smoothing small panels, detail work |
| No. 4 | ~9.5 in | Smoothing — the most versatile plane |
| No. 5 | ~14 in | Jack plane — rough stock removal |
| No. 6 | ~18 in | Fore plane — flattening and truing |
| No. 7 | ~22 in | Jointer — truing long edges for glue-ups |
| No. 8 | ~24 in | Large jointer — cabinet and door work |
The Three Planes Most Woodworkers Need First
1. The No. 5 Jack Plane
If you can only own one plane, make it a No. 5. It's long enough to remove material quickly and flatten faces, but not so unwieldy that it can't do detail work. Set it with a slight camber on the blade for aggressive stock removal, or flatten the blade for a cleaner cut. New or vintage, a No. 5 is always useful.
2. The No. 4 Smoothing Plane
The No. 4 is where most woodworkers spend the most time. After the jack plane removes material and establishes flat, the No. 4 follows up with a finer cut for a polished surface. A well-tuned No. 4 with a sharp blade set very fine will leave a better surface than any sandpaper.
3. The No. 7 Jointer Plane
Once you start doing glue-ups, you'll realize why the jointer plane exists. Its length bridges high spots and references off the true surface, producing perfectly straight edges. A 12-inch edge that rocks slightly will never glue up tightly — the No. 7 solves that problem.
New vs. Vintage Planes
There's a lively debate in the hand-tool world between buying new premium planes (Lie-Nielsen, Veritas) versus hunting for vintage Stanley or Record planes at flea markets and estate sales.
- New premium planes: Ready to use out of the box, tighter tolerances, excellent irons. Higher cost, but less fettling required.
- Vintage planes: Often available cheaply, requiring rust removal, flattening the sole, and sharpening. Great value if you enjoy the process — and many woodworkers do.
For beginners, a mid-range new plane (Woodriver, for example) can be a good compromise — better out-of-the-box quality than a rough vintage find, without the premium price.
The Most Important Skill: Sharpening
No plane, regardless of price, works well with a dull blade. Before anything else, learn to sharpen. You need:
- A coarse stone (around 220 grit) for shaping a damaged or new blade
- A medium stone (around 1000 grit) to refine the edge
- A fine stone (4000–8000 grit) for a polished edge
- A leather strop with honing compound for the final edge
A plane blade should be sharp enough to shave arm hair easily. If it doesn't, keep sharpening.
Summary: Start Simple
Resist the urge to buy every plane at once. Start with a No. 5 jack plane, learn to sharpen it, and use it on real projects. Add a No. 4 smoother when you want finer surfaces, and a No. 7 jointer when glue-ups become part of your work. From that foundation, every other plane you add will have a clear purpose.